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Thread: Tile guys or anyone who has installed Ledgestone

  1. #1
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    Default Tile guys or anyone who has installed Ledgestone

    I'm doing a bar project where I have 2 different surfaces to install ledgestone on.


    http://www.rona.ca/en/ledgestone-wall-slate


    I have a 2' wide x 4' high drywall piece and then an 7' wide x 3.5' high plywood piece.


    1. has anyone every installed this, let me know how you did it.


    2. can you/would you use LePage PL Premium to attach to walls/wood


    3. do I have to use the diamond mesh, scratch coat
    The two loudest sounds in the world are "CLICK" when you are expecting "BOOM", and "BOOM" when you are expecting "CLICK".

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    Company I work for also makes and markets a version of what you are working with. As soon as you said " drywall" you should use a mesh/scratchcoat process. Make sure you use rust proof nails and mesh as it will eventually leak rust through your masonry and sometimes the brick. There are specialized veneer stone mortars but all you need is a Type S mortar usually.
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    I also wondered about glue but the stone man who has done about 8 jobs for me insisted on lath and scratch coat....

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    Instructions inside box said you can put it right on drywall up to 10' in hight (I'm only going about 4').
    I called a tile guy and he said you can do the ready mix mortar right on the drywall and the OSB of the bar front. Another told me to use No Nails or PL Premium. Everyone you talk to says to do it a different way.
    The two loudest sounds in the world are "CLICK" when you are expecting "BOOM", and "BOOM" when you are expecting "CLICK".

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Cannon View Post
    Instructions inside box said you can put it right on drywall up to 10' in hight (I'm only going about 4').
    I called a tile guy and he said you can do the ready mix mortar right on the drywall and the OSB of the bar front. Another told me to use No Nails or PL Premium. Everyone you talk to says to do it a different way.
    Drywall is Gypsum covered with a paper membrane. You will be applying a Lyme based Mortar which has a high water content and hoping the paper doesn't delaminate. Mortar and brick veneer have a much higher load than paint does. PL type adhesives aren't best suited to verticle adhesion of bricks. If you knew how many complaints we get from home owners who claim " the installer said it was ok ", but anyway you have been given opinions it up to you to decide what works for you.
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  7. #6
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    Keep it simple and use durroc instead of plywood. It can be bought in different lengths and cuts with box cutter.Then just apply mortar that you mix up. You'll get a better finish by matching the grout to the tile and really,really small grout lines ( 1/16 or less.) I like to touch the tiles. I have pics of the last bathroom,that I did. Started doing counter tops about 30 years ago. It was the only thing that tenants couldn't destroy,lol.

  8. #7
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    What Terry and Greenhorn have indicated.

    Don't apply directly to drywall, period. Lath and thinset mortar bond.

    You have indicated in your 1st post that the other surface is plywood, then later that it's OSB......one is not the same as the other structurally, and will behave differently.

    Use durroc over the whole area to be applied, and you won't have any issues.

    Just because someone got away with using PL adhesive doesn't mean it will be a decent job years down the road. I've seen horrible work done by tile setters who used PL for wall tile, then grouted it.
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    There are tile jobs that have been there for over a hundred years and they used thinset mortar. Even with the new waterproof membranes they still specify thinset...

  10. #9
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    yes, the bar front was supposed to be plywood but when installed it was osb. It's obvious which way to go. Thanks
    The two loudest sounds in the world are "CLICK" when you are expecting "BOOM", and "BOOM" when you are expecting "CLICK".

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