Does anyone change their own oil?

I've been meaning to get a Fumoto type oil drain valve https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....SR160,160_.jpg for years, but couldn't find a decent Canadian price.

I found this instead, which is the same thing. No more tools (except for oil filter), no more mess and no more oil basin needed, You can just drain the old oil back into your empty oil bottles.

I just ordered one before my first oil change on the truck. Canadian funds and free shipping:

http://www.ezoildrain.ca/

Has anybody used one of these?

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/026...89043930558063

I thought about it but the fear of the valve opening on debris while off roading kept me away.

That's a non issue. Read up on that myself.

Fumoto themselves recommend the use of an additional clip if you take your truck offroad. It makes it less appealing when it becomes more steps and more things that can break.

[COLOR=#333333]"FOR USERS OPERATING VEHICLES IN EXTREME CONDITIONS[COLOR=#333333][COLOR=#333333]If you operate your vehicle on rough terrain or in conditions where objects may strike the oil drain area (ie. logging, off-road, farming), we recommend installing a lever clip. A lever clip firmly secures the lever in the locked position at all times and prevents accidental openings."

And a quick google search revealed a couple reported leaky valves.

The lever is spring loaded. I read the the clip isn't necessary by those that have been using them for years. I'm sure if you google you can find a person or two that may have had a leak, but then you'll get a whack more that have never had a leak after using them on several different vehicles over the years.

I guess it depends on your oil drain pan and the angle of the plug. I have a skid plate as well. Not too worried about catching it on anything and if it does I think you have more serious issues..lol. Apparently there are many other things that would be taken out before the valve when off roading but if it worries you then I wouldn't do it.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/mem...2-img-4646.jpg

http://www.f150forum.com/attachments...ql._ss400_.jpg

The only complaint I've read is that the oil drains slower, but then that's another reason to heat it up. If it takes an extra minute to drain I'm ok with that.

I would be worried about it catching on something but that would be a dependent on the angle the plug sits. On my Jeep the plug is straight down, I know a branch would grab that and rip a hole in my oil pan on the first run, even with the skid plates on. I don't know if that would work on the Matrix, I have not yet changed the oil as it is still on warranty.

My boat had a similar device, I found an oil vacuum was easier but you may not be able to use it on certain vehicles.

http://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=OIP.M...9&rs=0&p=0&r=0

I did an oil change on my Tacoma last weekend. Put a brick as a wedge on both rear tires, jacked up the front and put jack stands under, put down some cardboard incase of spillage, put my catch basin under, took out the plug and let it drain. I try to do as much maintenance on my own as possible.
I personally wouldn't use the valve but that's just because no matter what the manufacturer and internet users say, you never know what can happen. My plug points straight down and there is no skid plate, I would be worried just like Fox.

Well I'll let you know how it goes. I've always done my own oil changes using those plastic Rhino ramps, and I think this valve is going to make things much easier, and cleaner, and quicker. Like I said I've been meaning to get one for years and finally ordered one. I'm pretty sure the plug on my 2016 F150 sticks straight down as well but I haven't looked yet, and I want to put a few k more on it before it's first oil change. Either way there's usually a cross member like in the pic posted above, plus a skid plate. My 05 F150 looked like the pic above. I'm not worried about it catching anything while off roading. I don't do any serious off roading with my daily driver anyway.

I am lucky I have a 10000 2 post lift in my garage to do my own work. I had a similar valve I installed on my wife's 05 Dakota. The drain plug was above a cross member and when you removed the plug oil hit the cross member and ran everywhere causing a huge mess. Did this once and looked for a solution and found a valve I was able to get at CTC on my he shelf. It had a spring loaded connector on it for the hose made the job a lot easier and cleaner. I wouldn't let any quick change oil place touch a vehicle I own. I have changed my own oil since I began to drive even on a new vehicle I change my own oil. Dealer has told me to keep recipes for oil and filters in case of warranty issues but has never questioned me ever about it. My truck cost over $100 for dealer to do an oil change I can buy a 200 litre tote of oil for less than $500 and 16 filters at $8 each and do my own for $30 a time and know it's done right

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Originally Posted by gooseman

I am lucky I have a 10000 2 post lift in my garage to do my own work. I had a similar valve I installed on my wife's 05 Dakota. The drain plug was above a cross member and when you removed the plug oil hit the cross member and ran everywhere causing a huge mess. Did this once and looked for a solution and found a valve I was able to get at CTC on my he shelf. It had a spring loaded connector on it for the hose made the job a lot easier and cleaner. I wouldn't let any quick change oil place touch a vehicle I own. I have changed my own oil since I began to drive even on a new vehicle I change my own oil. Dealer has told me to keep recipes for oil and filters in case of warranty issues but has never questioned me ever about it. My truck cost over $100 for dealer to do an oil change I can buy a 200 litre tote of oil for less than $500 and 16 filters at $8 each and do my own for $30 a time and know it's done right

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Same as this one, in fact I believe CTC used to sell the Fumoto valve but I couldn't find it on their site.

I'll pick up a hose for it and if the drain is under the skid plate I'm hoping I can just reach in and attach the hose. The skid plate may not even be in the way. Won't know til I look under there.

Years ago I took my Ram to a quick lube place and a few hours later found a large puddle of oil under the truck. The drain plug was barely half way threaded on.

Gooseman - hate to hijack the thread, but can i ask where you get your totes of oil from?- sounds like a great set-up.

Those valves are great, a lot of transport trucks have them installed and it makes it a lot less likely to make a mess.

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Originally Posted by bushsitter

Gooseman - hate to hijack the thread, but can i ask where you get your totes of oil from?- sounds like a great set-up.

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Any commercial fuel and oil supplier can get them. You have to pay for the tote which is returnable when done.

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2...001/FRA-SD.jpghttp://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_0426.jpgUsed one of these for yrs on pickup, nice thing is you can drain while oil is warm/hot which allows it to drain faster and carry all/most crap with it. Have seen others overtighten and strip the threads in their pans, which will not happen here. The screw on cap prevented accidental leaks and kept all clean, only extends a minimum amount lower than stock plug. Added a longer hose though, the hose prevents wind blowing the draining oil outside your catch pan. Fram Sure drain oil plug

Over the years I have had tranny cooler lines, rad hoses, transmission safety switches, power steering hoses and tractor oil lines get ripped/knocked off. As long as I might be by myself in the bush, I ain't adding anything that could get caught or snagged....

That's the one I purchased from CTC made by fram. Always worked good for me

I would be worried a lot of the gunk (sludge) would stay in the pan and not be pushed out by the oil. I like to get the engine nice and hot, pull the plug out fast and let the pressure of the oil push out all the gunk. Not so sure the valve system there would allow for that.

If you have that much gunk and sludge then your doing something wrong! Change your oil sooner, I agree with hot engine and letting it flow good. With today's oil and filters you shouldn't have sludge in your pan.

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Originally Posted by gooseman

If you have that much gunk and sludge then your doing something wrong! Change your oil sooner, I agree with hot engine and letting it flow good. With today's oil and filters you shouldn't have sludge in your pan.

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Just to clarify, no sludge in mine and maybe I am wrong, but I could see how sludge could build up using that valve type system over time (5-7-8-12 years?). Doing oil changes using that valve type system looks easier but maybe not the best way to get all that old dirty oil out fast..... just my 2cts...

Check out Form A Funnel
formafunnel.com

With less than a minute you can make a funnel/drain channel for even the most awkwardly located oil drains.

Full synthetic doesn't sludge. I do my oil changes every 10k kms no matter how long it takes to get there. I use full synthetic (Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 was on sale a CTC so I grabbed 4 jugs), and use a quality oil filter from Carquest/Nappa (Wix premium filters) or usually I just grab a few at the dealership since the Ford filters are quality filters.

It has worked for me.

I do all mine topside now, my VW has has the filter on top so no more crawling under the car. I bought the vacuum at P-Auto and it takes about 10 minutes start to finish. Same thing with the ATV it always made such a mess draining out and catching on the skid plate and running everywhere, now your hands don't even get dirty it is a nice gadget to have.

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Originally Posted by last5oh_302

Full synthetic doesn't sludge. I do my oil changes every 10k kms no matter how long it takes to get there. I use full synthetic (Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 was on sale a CTC so I grabbed 4 jugs), and use a quality oil filter from Carquest/Nappa (Wix premium filters) or usually I just grab a few at the dealership since the Ford filters are quality filters.

It has worked for me.

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Good choice on the filters. I used Fram for many years and had lack of oil pressure on start-up, switched to NAPA Gold and the problems went away, something to do with the anti-drain back feature. No more Fram for me.

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Originally Posted by Marker

Good choice on the filters. I used Fram for many years and had lack of oil pressure on start-up, switched to NAPA Gold and the problems went away, something to do with the anti-drain back feature. No more Fram for me.

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It likely has to do with the cardboard used in the Fram.

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/atta...39427993_o.jpg

I received the valve. Now I just wait until it's time to change the oil. Lowes carry the clear vinyl hoses for around 4-5 bucks and they come in 10 foot lengths.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psqrb0bew9.jpg

3 bucks at lowes.