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Thank you, my life is research but more importantly, I felt like I had to know tree identification and heat values of species if I wanted to sell firewood. I started out picking up wood on the side of the road so I had to identify what is good wood or not. Now I can tell firewood species by smell, in the dark, or rotting in a years-old pile
It depends on the stove I would not say most. Mine isn't it's 13 years old which I bought new. Been heating my 1200 sq ft home (2400 inc basement) with it for 13 years. During that time I used nothing but firewood.
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Originally Posted by FirewodGuy
Collectively pointed out by the group is that you can burn whatever, how ever, as long as it gets warm enough for you and that you clean your chimney enough. It seems that the underlying significant point of burning good dry hardwood versus pine, wet or mediocre wood is that you save time, effort and money through efficiency. Thank you, I have a lot more videos coming. I just started my channel a couple months ago and have over 50 videos. I plan on giving back to youtube what it has given to me. Also, there is something about firewood and all its aspects that intrigue many of us, just think of how many people think chopping wood with an axe is invigorating even though they are not familiar with it.
One thing I have never been able to find is good information on the BTU's per species of wood in Ontario 3 different ones and 3 different answer.
Two years is not enough. Maybe it is a good way to have it dry in trunk form than being felled and laid on the ground, but ultimately, the best way to dry firewood fast is to have it all cut and split ASAP. the smaller the pieces, the quicker the drying time. Two years drying is not enough for unsplit rounds that even a little as 6 to 8 inch diameter or more. There are other factors that determine drying time like when the tree was cut (less moisture in winter), water content of each species or years since death of the tree, if the tree was hollowed out, etc. Best way to tell, when knocking two logs together, you will hear a dry clink sound or a wet thud sound. I don't have any experience with poplar, I've sold hardwood over the years but just started selling pine, spruce and other softer hardwoods for outdoor burning, but I still wont pick up poplar. Its nice to have when free if its not that good but you're still getting some heat with it. Being familiar with many types of wood and their drying times, poplar should dry fast.
Thanks a lot, I'm totally new to the filming realm. They will be better in the future.
I need to buy a chimney sweep, for those that have one....are they better to be nylon or steel ? I have a 6” Sentinel chimney
Mine has metal bristles, I don't really think it matters.Quote:
Originally Posted by 73hunter
Regrowth is even worse with poplar's cousin the linden or basswood. Chutes galore post-cutting. When fresh cut, it smells like pepsi (not coke, seriously) and when burned, it smells like incense of some sort. Softer wood as well, while white birch, another cousin is only a little bit harder.
I have steel, seems to me it would be better but I don't know.
I run it through the chimney 3 times and then clean the cap with a wire brush if it needs it.
The main run of my chimney is out side and I remove the clean out then go up on the roof and drop the rope through it. My son ties on the brush and I pull it up through the chimney. I have one elbow and on 3 ft section in the house I remove those and bring them in the garage and run the brush through them 3 time. Takes me total time 30 minutes.
The garage I have to take apart 2 ft pipes and 2 adjustable elbows and run a brush through the small part in the roof, still only takes 30 minutes.
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Originally Posted by 73hunter